At Ultimate Styling, we believe this is the safest way for a swirl free car wash:
Part 1 – Pre-Rinse:
This stage of the car wash is usually rushed however you need to make sure that you rinse properly either with a pressure washer or a high powered hosepipe. The pre-rinse free’s up loose dirt and silt that contaminates the body paintwork. Drive out any dirt, grime sand or whatever it may be to prevent marring further down the line. You want to focus on removing as much dirt as possible during this stage.
Part 2 – Pre-wash:
This is also often missed out and can be vital to achieving a swirl free car wash. The idea behind the pre-wash is to remove even more light contaminants of the paintwork. If this stage is missed, swirl marks can develop and your paintwork will be peppered in small marks. To aid the pre-wash use a shampoo or a foaming agent, ideally, something with citrus, allow this to sit for 5-10 minutes and wash off with a pressure washer. The spray or quick detailer will have penetrated the dirt and will have lifted away some contaminants. The lower portions of your car will be more covered in dirt and grime as the front and rear wheels flick dirt up onto the paintwork. Any sort of pre-wash or even your actual shampoo can be used here. Rinse down to prepare for the next stage which is the two bucket method.
Part 3 – Two bucket method (Wash):
After considering the two other major stages leading up to this. The two bucket method is where you physically wash the paintwork with a wash mitt and sponge and car wash shampoo. Fill one bucket with warm fresh water this is your rinsing bucket. Fill the second bucket 3/4 full with water then add car shampoo. Make sure when you feel the water it’s silky to touch that is when you have enough. Sometimes it 2-3 caps full sometimes its more or less depending on what the directions say. Top the bucket up until its full of warm water. Make sure you start at the top of the car and work your way down. Water drips downwards and so do the suds so your only doing yourself favors by maximizing how much water you use. Saturate your wash mitt or sponge, sweep the wash mitt using only light pressure side to side to remove the dirt. Squeeze the water onto the paintwork then wipe backward and forwards gently ensuring you don’t increase the pressure onto the paintwork. Use plenty of car wash shampoo, there shouldn’t be any friction to the paintwork and no scrubbing involved. Use plenty of shampoo. Once you have done a forward, backward and side to side motion. Scrub clean the wash mitt or sponge in the rinse bucket and repeat until the whole car is done. Leave the dirtiest area’s of the car until last as we mentioned. The lower portion of the car. Wash top to bottom. Once the whole car is covered we then move onto the rinsing stage.
Part 4 – Rinsing:
This stage can be done panel per panel, this is great if it’s a hot sunny day and you need to rinse quickly. Set your hose or pressure washer so its a steady stream of water. We washed from the top down so we are going to rinse from the top down too. Using lots of fresh water If the car paintwork has been waxed or sealed, beading and sheeting will happen, the water will roll and fall off of the paintwork as a result. The next stage is drying which is also key.
Part 5 – Drying:
This stage is particularly important too. Be sure not to use a water blade as these scratch the paintwork, you might as well not even wash the car all together as they make things a living nightmare. Stick to a microfibre towel or a waffle cloth to pick up heavy, dense amount of water. Use smaller microfibre towels to buff out. Make sure you regularly wash all of your clothes and sponges as a badly kept drying cloth is really damaging to the paintwork. A further option is to spray a quick detailer solution to finish the car wash and to buff out. This will add a small amount of lubrication to the cloth and prevent any further scratching.
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